How to make your own cosplay step by step: Clalaclan from Shining Wind

[Corycaly]

I wanted to share with you my latest complete cosplay: Clalaclan Philias! This character comes from the anime/video game Shining wind. She's a kind of priest/warrior/princess.
I discovered first this figurine and fell in love with the outfit:


The colors, the flying skirts, the elegance and bravery of the character seduced me immediately!

I ended this project last summer but I worked on it regularly for some months. It was hard to conciliate my job, the after hours endless copybooks corrections and my hobbies, meaning It takes me longer than usual to end my sewing projects.
I wore it last summer during a local manga convention but I quickly understood my armor fixations were BAD BAD BAD.
 I will probably remake the whole armor but I enjoyed this project a lot. It made me discover new sewing technics and showed me the domains I have to improve.
In this topic, I will share elements about corset making, wig choose, horsehair braid and worbla fails .

Here is the ended fabric part, without the armor::


I began with the sewing part.
I first studied the outfit and separated it into several smaller projects: the skirts, the petticoat, the corset, the arms things. I looked for sewing patterns and lastly I bought the fabrics. I went to fabrics shops with the images of the figurine to choose the good fabric color, I ordered fabrics samples to compare them.

Advice: It's better to separate your project into several smaller parts so you won't be overwelmed.  It is also better for your savings since you won't have to buy anything at once.  Don't forget to buy fabrics or expensive elements during promotions! Check for coupons!

I first started the corset.
I used this sewing pattern: Mc Calls 6343. The fabric is a low shining duchesse sateen. This fabric is easy to sew, shine a little but not much. I added blue fabric I had purchased ages ago: it's a kind of light synthetic fabric.
Advice: there are several corset sewing patterns available on sewing shops (Mc calls, simplicity, Butterick). You can also try historical based ones for more accuracy (neheleniapatterns).

I used  a serger to protect all fabric borders: it gives a cleaner look, the fabrics will last longer.

Advice: choose a good quality sewing thread for your sewing machine, it will avoid you lost of problems.
Sewing threads exist in lots of color: pick one similar to the fabric color. Use new sewing needle for your project.

The instructions are easy to follow. I added metal bones to give a better support to the fabric.
Advice: Don't forget to smooth each end of the bones or else it will break through the fabrics! Do not use usual ribbons as bone casing because they will break easily: purchase grosgrain ribbon or tubular boning tape. 

The fabrics choice are very important for a corset : you can use sateen, taffetas or any other kind of fabric for the outside fabric, but you will need  heavy non streching fabrics for the interior fabrics. (example: coutil). A corset has several fabric layers!

I found  a lot of some kind of "eyelets" for ultra cheap: I modified them a little to use them as lacing loops. I added some beads for elegance. Since this part of the outfit is hidden by armor and that the official pictures don't show the back of the corset, I was free to create it.

Here is the final result :

Next post will be about the skirts!

[legomaestro]

Cory you've always been such a boss at this sort of thing! I'm just really impressed.

A lot of the technical side of things like sewing patterns is hard to understand for me at the moment, but I think I'll avoid sewing that much in the first place haha. I don't have that much skill. Or can someone learn that?

LOve that you can still keep up with this despite a busy job. Keep at it Cory.

[Corycaly]

Cory you've always been such a boss at this sort of thing! I'm just really impressed.

A lot of the technical side of things like sewing patterns is hard to understand for me at the moment, but I think I'll avoid sewing that much in the first place haha. I don't have that much skill. Or can someone learn that?

LOve that you can still keep up with this despite a busy job. Keep at it Cory.

The ideal is to choose a beginner level sewing pattern.
I mostly use Mc Calls/Butterick  sewing patterns because they are easy to use.

I remember I discovered cosplay during a big anime convention: I was fascinated! I immediately wanted to do my own cosplay. My first sewing project was a kimono. I wanted absolutely to make it by myself but didn't know how to sew. My aunt and my  mother helped me choose the good materials. We discovered the sewing pattern together. I had the luck to learn sewing basics with them. One month later I bought my own sewing machine and made a coat, a top and a pair of trousers as Xmas gift. I choose ultra easy patterns and all went well!

For those who aren't as lucky, there are lots of sewing tutorials, if not sewing forums to help you. There are also good sewing books who are great to help you understand basics.
There are also sewing lessons available but they may be expensive.
It's never too late to learn!

[legomaestro]

I'll keep that in mind haha. It's also pretty awesome to have supportive family members like that. If I may ask was the first one that expensive to make or... ?

[Corycaly]

My first cosplay was a kimono. It was a Yuko cosplay from the manga XXX Holic. I made it 6 or 7 years ago.

I was careful: I bought stuff only during discounts and promotions.  I didn't buy all stuff immediately: I first started with the fabrics which were bought  one year before the convention.

 I think the most expensive was the wig (around 30 usd If I remember well). I bought it just before the convention.

I had bought fabrics paints 3 months before the convention. I used for other projects so nothing got wasted.

That method didn't ruin my savings. ^^

 If I had to remake the same cosplay now now:
fabrics: duchesse sateen 30 euros with shipping ( in Tissus Price)
paints: lets put 15 euros maximum
wig: 21 usd (in Cosplaydna shop)
sewing pattern: can be found for free online

It would be less than 70 usd. I think it would be even cheaper during discount or promotion events.

I hope this will have helped you!

[legomaestro]

That actually sounds like it would work out for me. Especially if you space out the purchases during the month. Thanks, Cory!

[Hasith]

Coplay can be a costly hobby. If you are an expert AliExpress user then you can find lots of stuff for cheap. Hardest part is making those weapons and armor I think.

[Corycaly]

Cosplay can be very costly, especially if you choose expensive materials such as worbla. I use aliexpress for beads, ribbons, embroidery stuff. It's sometimes ten times cheaper than in my local shops.

For example, I used aliexpress to order cheap horsehair braid. Horsehair braid is a kind of plastic used to give support to skirt and dresses. It's also used in hats.
 In my local shops, it was either impossible to find or 2 to 5 usd the meter. I needed more than 20 meters of that stuff so you can imagine my reaction 
I purchased on aliexpress 100 or 200 meters of that stuff for less than 10 usd with free shipping.

First I used this tutorial to create the skirts.

The first one is a double circle skirt: I wanted extra fabric to create lots of ruffles. It's so big I had to fold it to take pics.


I used this tutorial to use the horsehair braid. J. Hart is an  incredibly talented designer who shares the secrets of his art.
I sewn the horsehair braid to the back of the skirt edges and gathered the fabric. on the middle of the length. The ruffles appeared immediately: I pinned them and sewed them. I inserted an elastic to the waist and added a waistline.
I ironed each ruffle so the horsebraid will keep the ruffle shape definetely.



The second skirt is made with the same method but with only 1, 5 skirt. I sewed horsehair braid to the fabric back. I gathered the fabric on the waistline and ironed the ruffles. Their shape is different than the first skirt's. They look like waves, they aren't bigger.

I hid the horsehair braid sewing by adding decorative sewing points on top of it.